The Case

Barrel

The tonneau case, combining elegance and originality, is distinguished by its delicate curvature that adapts harmoniously to the wrist. Its sophisticated shape and play of volumes give it a unique character.

Square

Complex to manufacture, the square case is frequently associated with sports watches, like the GOLFER model from the Optima brand.

Round

Most analog watches feature a circular case with a rounded dial.

Cushion

This case shape derives from the first wristwatches, initially pocket watches fitted to cushion cases to fit the wrist.

The Bezel

Fixed

A fixed bezel surrounding the crystal is often decorative, but it can also serve a specific function, such as a tachymeter.

One-way

On diving watches, the bezel includes a 60-minute scale to monitor air consumption. It is unidirectional to avoid any errors that could delay the ascent. This is particularly the case for our OCEAN model from the MUREX brand.

Bidirectional

When not intended for diving, a bidirectional bezel offers added convenience. GMT bezels, which display the time in a second time zone, rotate in either direction for quicker adjustment.

Internal

The internal bezel has the advantage of being less subject to shocks. It is often adjusted by an external crown which can lock it in one position.

The Crown

The Screw-Down Crown: Explanation and Importance

The screw-down crown is an essential part of a Swiss Made watch, allowing you to set the time, date and sometimes other specific functions. It is essential to understand how it works before making any adjustments, as improper handling can damage the mechanism or compromise the watch's water resistance.

Usually located on the side of the case, the screw-down crown must be properly screwed back in after each adjustment to ensure optimum water resistance and protect the movement from moisture and dust.

  • Always unscrew the crown before making an adjustment.
  • Once adjustment is complete, screw the crown firmly back into its secure position.
  • Do not pull the crown excessively or handle it roughly.

The Glass

Sapphire

Modern watches typically feature a colorless synthetic sapphire, also called corundum, which offers superior scratch resistance to most other crystals.

Acrylic

Before the advent of synthetic sapphires, manufacturers mainly used acrylic for crystals. For strength, these were often thick and domed, making them easily recognizable.

Magnifying glass

Due to the lack of space on the dial, the date can be difficult to read. This is why some watches are equipped with a magnifying glass above the date to make it easier to read.

Transparent background

Since an automatic movement is a true work of art, some people want to admire it. That's why some quality watches have a sapphire case back, allowing you to admire the movement from the back while protecting it.

The Dial

The sunray dial

A radial texture extending from the center of the dial outwards creates a striking, almost holographic visual effect, subtly playing with light and shadow.

The structured dial

The "structured" dial is a technical feat, where the effect is generated by the relief of squares engraved in the metal. This design is found on our PRESTIGE model from Mercury.

The skeletonized dial

Sometimes a movement is so beautiful that it doesn't deserve to be hidden by an opaque dial. So, the latter is often partially cut away to reveal the beauty of the complex mechanism hidden behind.

The Markings

Roman numerals

This numeral system, devised by the Romans from an older Etruscan system, is noted for using the letters of the alphabet and not including a symbol representing zero.

Indexes

This type of marker, designed to improve the readability of diving watches, does not have numbers, but simple shapes, often in relief, on which luminous paint is sometimes applied.

Arabic numerals

It was after the fall of the Roman Empire in 300 AD that the Arabic numeral system spread. With the introduction of zero, this system revolutionized mathematics.

The Needles

Stick needles

Baton hands, characteristic of the most classic models, are distinguished by their slender and elegant shape, often made from precious metals. They are frequently found on vintage watches, generally with smaller dials. When they are particularly thin, they are called "fil hands".

The sword needles

Glaive-type hands are distinguished by their pointed, tapered shape, reminiscent of a sword blade. This bold design, often found on modern or sports watches, offers both readability and visual impact.

Dauphine needles

The dauphine needle, both thick and very readable, is located between the thread needle and the lance needle. It perfectly combines clarity and elegance, and can sometimes be covered with luminous paint.

Mercedes needles

This type of hand, developed for diving watches, was designed to provide optimal distinction between minutes and hours, particularly on sports models.

The Movements

The manual movement

A manual movement is a mechanical movement powered by a main spring, which must be manually wound every two days to maintain its tension.

The automatic movement

Like the manual movement, the automatic movement is a mechanical mechanism, but it winds itself automatically thanks to a rotor which captures the energy of the movements of the wrist.

The quartz movement

This movement is powered by a precise battery, whose innovative technology and low cost have almost made the mechanical watch disappear. Quartz watches thus represent a more affordable alternative.

The skeleton movement

Watch movements are usually assembled between laminated plates that hide the moving parts. Skeleton movements were designed to reveal the workings of all the parts of the mechanism.

The Bracelet

Leather

Soft and comfortable, leather comes in a variety of styles, from natural suede to gold-tone Cordoba leather. However, most of these straps are not water-resistant.

Rubber

Typical of the sporty style, the rubber strap is both comfortable and very durable. It is a lighter alternative to the stainless steel strap.







Stainless steel

Metal bracelets, made of assembled metal links, combine elegance and robustness. In stainless steel or precious metals, they give the watch both solidity and style.

The Clasp

Pin buckle

Simple and elegant, the pin buckle looks like a belt buckle. The strap is inserted into it and held in place by the mechanism.

Simple folding clasp

This is the perfect buckle for those looking for both the comfort of a bracelet and the tactile feel of a clip-on clasp. The deployant locks and unlocks from one side only, offering greater simplicity.

Double folding clasp

This is a type of buckle similar to the simple folding clasp, but with two flaps. Often used with a metal bracelet, it adapts better to the wrist for a more comfortable wear.

The “flip lock” type clasp

On diving watches, whose main function is to indicate the immersion time, the "flip lock" clasp provides additional security thanks to its clip-on safety tab.